Adventures in hat making: Edwardian hat, part 4, Fantasy vs Authenticity

First of all the ironing and flat drying of the buckram didn't turn out as well as I had hoped. The buckram has large bubbles now, instead of sharp folds. Needless to say that I am not really happy.

My design idea for my hat was; black wool crown and upperside of the brim and a purple silk underside of the brim. Maybe with a black lace overlay over the purple silk. And the top of the hat decorated with purple and black details.

Much like the Edwardian theatrical reproduction hat here.



I really love the way it looks! But I have been unable to find periode examples with a two different colors/materials fabric on the brim. Usually the brim (upper- and underside) and crown was made from the same material, often velvet or fur for winterhats. A wool hat was far more less common that I had expected.

The overall look of the reproduction hat that I liked so much, is that of an early clouche hat. Which was worn around 1918, too late to be suitable to be worn with my 1909's costume.

This leaves me deliberating my options, it all boils down to my fantasy vs authenticity.

Some images of authentic Edwardian hats for inspiration:


Mata Hari





Actress Lily Elsie in the role of the Merry Widow.

Adventures in hat making: Edwardian hat, part 3

I have flattend the buckram by putting it between two damp cloths ironing it and allowing it to dry flat. The end result isn't perfect and all the glue in the buckram fabric has disapeared, but I am hoping that it will be good enough to work with any way.

Currently I am sewing the wire to the cut buckram pieces.

And Rosy, thank you for the link. It had nog information about flattening the buckram, but I think it will be extremly useful for the rest of the hatmaking proces.

Adventures in hatmaking: Edwardian hat, part 2, Buckram question

I have never worked with buckram before and now I am faced with this, probably ridiculusly easy, question; "How do I flatten it?". The buckram I bought was send to me by mail, in order to fit in an envelope it has been folded... Before I can work with it, it needs to be flat! And I have really no clue at all whether or not I can iron it. I feel really silly...

So fellow costume - and hatmakers help me out! How can I flatten buckram.

Adventures in hat making: Edwardian hat

Just some of the supplies and this is supposed to become a hat one day...


Today I cut the pattern pieces for my Edwardian hat and put aside the things I need to make the basic hat. Although I have a pattern for the hat, Universal Round Brimmed, Straight Sided Crown, Hatpattern by Lynn Mc Masters I felt a little overwhelmed while reading the instructions for the first time.

I have used one of her patterns before and the hat turned out just fine.
http://costumediaries.blogspot.com/2009/02/adventures-in-victorian-hat-making.html

I made a cardboard mock-up in the size required for the version I intended to make, but decided that it is too big for me. Even if Edwardian hat are supposed to be HUGE. I would like to be able to wear it without feeling ridiculous and without straining my neck, so I will make the brim smaller.


This is me, feeling rather silly



The idea is to make a black hat with purple details and black and purple decorations.


Some examples from the period, proving that an Edwardian hat is supposed to be HUGE.






But the size of the brim did vary a lot, so I guess I can make the brim a little bit smaller without the hat losing to much of it's character.

Edwardian Coat Suit; Historical Costume Inspiration Festival Entry

Historical Costume Inspiration Festival



Inspiration:
Purple, Liberty&Co, wool and silk shantung walking costume, dated ca. 1906-1907, part of the Gemeentemuseum Den Haag collection. Here on display during the exhibition Haagse Hofmode.



My version of the skirt is made from purple wool, with a detached corselette aka swiss waist.The original skirt was a corset skirt with the corselette attached. I made it with a detached corselette to make the costume more versatile.

Corselette







Embriodery made after an Self Transferable Embroidery Pattern, from May of 1908 out of McCall’s Magazine.








The skirt worn with the matching coat. The coat has big black glass buttons which are vintage and probably date back to 1910-1920 and silk details.

On page 78 of Haute Couture & Prêt-à-Porter, fashion 1750-2000, by Ietse Meij you can find an image of the coat that went with the original skirt. I am not allowed to publish the image here, due to copyright.

Although the coat has Edwardian features it is not typical for a Edwardian Costume, which ofcourse is logical, as it is a Liberty& Co costume. So again I decided not to try and copy the coat but make a, more recognizable for the period, Edwardian coat. Like the ones depicted here in an ad from Grands Magasins Du Printemps, Paris, 1909.



Coat and skirt are made with the Edwardian Coat Suit pattern by Rocking Horse Farm. The white cotton blouse is an altered version of The Gibson Girl Blouse from Folkwear. And the Corselette is made with Truly Victorian #492, 1890's Corselets.

The costume is worn with the correct underpinnings, for more information go to A Victorian Wardrobe and click on Edwardian Walking Costume.

Next stop will be a BIG Edwardian hat!

Edwardian Coat Suit

Today I tried on my Edwardian Coat Suit, with all the other costume parts (blouse, underwear etc.), underneath it. And to my great delight discovered that the only thing that has to be altered is the armhole. Hurraaaaaayyyy!!! And then it can be finished!

The picture doesn't do the suit justice: it is made from purple wool. The collar and the decorative strip, on bottom, the sleeves are from purple silk.

Website Update

Being sick and tired of being sick and tired, since the last event, and not getting any costuming done. I updated the picture gallery of our Muninn and Huginn website. So everything has it's upside I guess !

I hope I'll be able to do some costuming soon, because I am getting really frustrated.