Full Circle (part 3)

This is my new crinoline cage, it was made with Truly Victorian pattern #142, the 1856 Walking Crinoline Cage.  The circumference of this pattern is 110", 16 inches smaller than my original crinoline. After experimenting with different hoop sizes, from 110 inch down to 90 inch, I decided to go with a 100 inch circumference instead of 110 inch. Unfortunately I had already sewn the bag for the bottom hoops so I couldn't alter the size of it anymore. That is why it looks like the top ring of a slightly deflated round child's swimming pool. All in all I went down a total of 26 inches from my original crinoline and do feel happier when I am wearing it. My husband refers to it as my lamp shade but the former version he called my tent... So I guess I did make some progress. 😉

I only needed to make my old top petticoat shorter. Which I did by adding a row of tucks. I always regretted not adding them in the first place but I didn't have the time the first time around. I really like how it looks now and as a bonus I can also wear it over my 1840's quilted petticoat now! That is what you call a win-win-win situation.

The skirt still needs to be hemmed and some other small things to do before it is finished but I think it is starting to look very promising. 

Full Circle (part 2)

When I made my first crinoline day dress I left out the boning and chestpadding. This time I want to try and do everything as authentic as I can. Just ingnore the fact that  I used my serger when flatlining the fashion fabric to the lining fabric.😉

The boning center back.

The chestpadding it was quite hard to figure out where to place them.

Looking at lots of pictures of original dresses

like this one found on the  All the pretty dresses blog

helped a lot! 

You can find my collection of images here:

https://nl.pinterest.com/medievalwitch/inside-out/

The Chestpadding and front boning in place.

The sleeves are sewn in, the button holes and the black glass buttons are in place. Next on my to-do-list is sewing in the band in the waist.

When I tried the bodice with the sleeves sewn in on I felt like I looked like a football player. The poufs on the sleeves make my upperbody look huge. That combined with the width of the crinoline skirt will hopefully make my waist look tiny. A very neat optical illusion trick, but for now I have my reservations about the poufs!

The first version of this costume

without the poufs. 

To pouf or not to pouf, that's the question!

I didn't like my original crinoline it was too big for little me. So I am going to alter it into a smaller version which will be "only" 110" in circumference. I will be using the Truly Victorian pattern TV142, 1856 Walking Cage. Which is more the size of a crinoline cage for daily use according to the information on the History of Fashion and Dress website: " When it comes to the crinolines of the 1860s, bigger is not always better. Contrary to popular belief, the crinolines worn by women of this period were not as wide as folklore (or Scarlett O'Hara) wants us to believe. While the largest period crinoline I have found documented measures a whopping 225" in circumference, the majority of 1860s era extant cages only measure between 90-105" in circumference."

 The larger TV141, 1858 Round Cage is better suited for use with a ball gown if you ask me. At least when your as short as me!

The difference between the circumference is only 16", I hope this is enough to make me feel more comfortable and less like a battleship.

My Victorian Traveler Bag

My Traveler aka Carpet bag is finally finished! I am quite happy with how it turned out. Still want a bigger version though :)

When I made the bag I was looking at the measurements of originals, reproductions and ofcourse the original Mary Poppins bag movie prop and wrote down the measurements. So I could scale them down to fit my bag frame. Later on I wanted to check on how big, a bigger version would have to be. If I wanted it to be same size as the movie prop but couldn't find the measurements anywhere on-line anymore! I did find my own notes, but I wrote down the sizes of a lot of bags without naming them. I do remember the movie prop as being the largest one. So if  (big if people!) I remember correctly the measurents are: 21 inch wide, 17 inch tall and 7 inch depth.

Please correct me if I am wrong or tell if you know I'm right!

The original Mary Poppins bag

more info liveauctioneers.com

For more pictures of the Mary Poppins exhibit 

at the D23 Expo 2013

visit halfcrazymama.com

and Michael Sandberg's Data Visualization Blog

Projects on hold

I am still working on various project, here is an update on some of them.

The 1840's - 1860's coat project is on hold. The sceond mock-up model I made showed that I still needed a lot of changes to the pattern to make it work. I am putting aside for now.

The 1880's hat has been finished and I have found some really nice hat decorations, some antique, some new. 

Hat decoration front idea

Hat decoration back idea

Nevertheless the hat still hasn't been decorated ! I still have to make a decorative band before I can sew on the rest of the decorations. The problem is that I am not fully satisfied with the hat. It sit on top of my head, which is the way they where worn in the 1880's, but I really really dislike the feeling. So the my internal debate is now: authenticity vs comfort. Also I would like the crown a little higher and the brim a little wider. Maybe it would be best to make a new hat and consider this a mock-up version but with no money for supplies this means this project is also on hold for now.

For now I have decided to concentrate on making things I need on a short notice. My son needs a new pair of nalebound viking socks as he has outgrown his old pairs. We already made him a new linen undertunic. The rest of his viking costume just needs to be let out.

And I want to make myself a new summerdress Burda #7179

I have traced the pattern on to paper weeks ago but only got around to shortening it today. Due to lack of time and energy progress is slow but it's still better than doing nothing at all I guess.

A while ago we went to the international collectors fair in Utrecht. We have been going there for the last 15 years and to our great sadness it keeps getting smaller every year. It has become so bad that we have decided not to go anymore, it's simply not worth the high entrance fee. Still there where some nice items, so I made some pictures for you to enjoy.

I've been kinda down lately so one of my sisters gave me a very early birthday present to cheer me up. It's the blue version of the Sheila apple daisy print dress by Hell Bunny. I wore it to the wedding of one of my husbands cousins last friday. Thanks Sis!

As you can see I messed up the settings of the photo camera but it gives the photo a vintage feel, don't you agree?

Black 1883's Bustle Tail Bodice

I have been busy making repairs and alterations, not only to costumes but also to our everyday clothes. Most of it was quite boring work but necessary.

Replacing my velvet collar with a fur collar and adding fur cuffs was a lot of work. But I am really happy with the end result so it was rewarding. The fur was donated by one of my husbands aunts and came from one of her old coats. 

You can find more information and pictures of the coat here.http://historicalcostumes.nl/

I also started with a new bustle bodice. I fell in love with the Truly Victorian pattern #462, the 1883 tail bodice after it was revised.

Unfortunately I didn't pay enough attention when I ordered it on-line, not at the Truly Victorian website. And ended up with the old version of the pattern! 

:Lucky for me that my pattern drafting skills are good enough to make the necessary adjustments to achieve the look I want. A short tailed bodice with 3/4 sleeves and a keyhole or diamond shaped neckline. 

Yesterday I made the mock-up and this morning I tried it on over my victorian underwear and corset.

And started with my corset training for this year by keeping it on for 30 minutes.

The two main inspirations for this project are:

 this dress from 1887,

owned by the Metropolitan Museum

And this dress sold by Augusta Actions

I love the strict look of the neckline and I am thinking about keeping the decorations on this costume to a minimum, but we'll see how it evolves. 

Website finished!

I am happy to be able to say that my website is finished!
It was a lot of work, especially for my father who designed and made the website.
Thanks Dad, I think it is awesome!

You can visit it here: http://historicalcostumes.nl/

Blocked!

Blocking this shawl was a lot of work especially because I couldn't do the whole shawl at once.

It's almost 2 meters wide and 81 cm high. I left out some rows otherwise it would have been even larger which is way to large for me as I am only a short lady. It weighs 608 grams and that is one of the reasons why I might be tempted to be another version in lightweight wool. Hopefully next time I can keep gauge and proprotions in check.

Edwardian Shawl finished!

My Edwardian Shawl is finished and ready to be blocked! I was off gauge and made a mistake in the beginning which caused it to not be real triangular shape but I am proud nevertheless as this was my first big and more complicated project.

I would like to give this pattern another try in a lighter woollen yarn appropriate for the gauge in the pattern. To make a lighter and smaller version, true to the pattern. It would make a nice project to work on during the Anton Pieck Parade in December.