A post on UFO's, alterations and repairs.

Hello Everyone, I haven't been bloggin for a while. That doesn't mean I haven't been sewing but I have been busy doing some costume maintance (repairs, alterations etc.) aka the boring stuff! Also I've been trying to reduce my UFO Pile also known as costume time-out pile. I have this bad habit of losing interest when a project takes too long or when I didn't make the deadline (event) for it. To prevent the UFO pile from becoming a hill I start each year with finishing/altering/repairing at least one costume.

Rescued from the UFO pile:

Past Patterns #113, 1899-1900 spectator jacket

Beige canvas jacket (made from our old Ektorp Ikea couch cover) based upon Past Patterns #113, 1899-1900 spectator jacket. I modified the pattern, didn't really know what I was doing and didn't write down the changes that I made. So I guess it's save to say that the problems I encountered where all my own fault. Overall I am happy with the result, although I wouldn't recommend using this thick quality canvas for clothing. To be honest I can't even remember when I started this project! I started working on it because we where thinking of doing a steampunk event. I got stuck at the sleeves and found out that I was not cut out to do steampunk. As I wanted to stay authentic, I couldn't come up with any original idea and I was afraid to end up with a "let's glue some gears on it and call it steampunk" costume. So the whole idea and the jacket got abonded.

Repairs/alterations (the boring stuff):

I have several chemisettes and pairs of undersleeves but I have to admit I am not a big fan of wearing them. So I sometimes sew the collar and cuffs to the bodice. This set I now also have tacked to the outside of the bodice to keep them in place. I don't know if it was done like this in the victorian era but I think it is a very practical short cut.

Same style bodice, different kind of job. Repairing a boning that is poking out. I once bought a synthetic fiber boning casing as it was all I could get in time. It's stretchy, hard to work with and the boning is poking through it. I don't think I am buying this stuff ever again 

There is this one project I am working on, but I am not doing it alone and it's not for me. Last year I helped one of my sons friends make a Doctor Strange costume. This time I am helping another of his friends make Porpetina's Goldsteins grey coat from the movie Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them. My son already has a Newt Scamander costume and now they want to Dutch Comic Con together as Newt and Tina. More on this project in the next blog post.

The Street of Emma/'t Straatje van Emma, Haarlem 2018

Here an impression of our annual 19th century/ early 20th century event in Haarlem.

Photo by Paul Veldhuis

Photo by Paul Veldhuis

Photo by Jolan Lelieveld

Photo by Jolan Lelieveld

From Night to Day

With the wonderful soirée over and done. It became time to direct my attention to turning my Belle Epoque evening outfit into suitable daywear for the next event.

I started of by making the top of Angela Clayton's McCalls #7732 pattern.

I would have like to make the jacket as well. As I am not really happy with the fit and look of my green velvet bodice. For now I'll try some quick (and modern) fixes and hope that it will these will do the trick.

The top; the base or lining fabric is cotton organdy, the top fabric swiss dot netting and the waistband silk.

As this was not dressed it enough, I added sleeves turning the top into an underbodice or underblouse. I cut of the ties at the bottom and added an extra set of hooks and eyes.

Then I turned my attention to my headwear, however lovely my tiara might be. It doesn't seem to be regarded a proper headwear for daytime. I think that should be because I think their absolutely fabulous! With no time to make a completly new hat I decided to redecorate on of my old hats. Which is coincidentally also a very "period" solution. I am quite pleased with the result.

With the deadline in only two weeks I've decided to also wear one of my old coats and start working on the jacket next January. This in an effort to keep my stress levels beareble not only for myself but also for those around me! 

For the love of the Muff (part 3)

When I made my first muff in 2006, there were not many patterns available and very little information on the internet. I made a muff and cape set from an old faux fur coat from my husbands maternal grandmother.

Some years later, after purchasing this vintage/antique muff, I gave the cape and the muff to a friend.

When friends gave me a vintage 1950's/1960's polar fox stole (without head) I immediately knew I wanted to turn it into a white muff. To go with this jacket and hat! Although my trusty black muff looks quite well as well!

As I have always been happy with how my first muff turned out I used the same description which I found in 2006 floating somewhere on the internet.

"...I have some muffs from this period and they are made thus:
Make 2  tubes of muslin cut about 13/14" x21", one should be about 2" less
than the other.Stitch one end together and make a 3/4" chenille for elastic,
and fill with feathers (or you may opt for heavy poly quilt filler)Stitch
the open end; make a chenille as in the other end .
(you may wish to sew satin facings of about 6" oh each end of the inner bag
as the lining might show.
Cut and thread 2 pieces of elastic about 10" in the ends
Make a second (well, third) tube of fur, chenille, or other fabric of your
choice about 1" less than the tube already assembled, and cover the inner
piece.
Add a handle on one end, of silk braid or rope.
Embellish with tassels to taste..."

I couldn't find the original source anymore but wanted to share this with you anyway because I found it really helpful. If you wrote this or you know who wrote this please let me know. I would be very happy to give you credit!

I did make some small changes when I made my second muff. For the first I used heavy poly quilt filler. To make this muff a little more historically accurate I used kapoc, a natural plant fibre. Which was oftend used in pillows and muffs. It has the added bonus that is not only more historically accurate but also warmer! 

The tubes where made from scraps of white cotton. The invisible one is striped, the visible one a nice satin weave.

I also decided to add a pocket. I had no idea how to do it and I am really bad at just winging it. So I decided to call in the cavalry in the shape of a workbook by Historical Sewing, the Faux Fur Muff pattern. I was very easy to follow and had very clear instructions, if you are thinking of make your own muff this would be a wise investment.

After putting the lining together it looked like this, in front of the lining is the polar fox fur.

You see that the tube has been filled but not sewn shut yet. Note: make sure you put in enough filling so that it can stand on a side without collapsing.

My new white muff turned out a little bigger than my vintage/antique black one. Although I suspect most of it is due to the fur being longer!

All in all it took about a week to complete this project and I am really happy with how it turned out!

Why the pocket in the muff, you might ask. It can be used for a wallet or a mobile phone but I use it to hold a hand/muff warmer.

My very small collection of vintage and antique muff warmers (small hot water bottles).

Unfortunately only one of them still works! The copper muff warmer leaks and the antique pewter muff warmer doesn't open anymore. And as hot water is in short supply at most of my Victorian themed events, I cheat and use a modern zippo handwarmer, which stays warm for 12 hours. This type of handwarmer was invented in 1923. 

Not just hot water bottles were used in the Victorian  and Edwardianera but also small charcoal burners, like these:

Source: https://marketlavingtonmuseum.

Visit for more information and pictures.

Source: http://www.homethingspast.com

Interesting read.

Source: https://www.etsy.com/

Source: https://www.etsy.com/

Both are still available!

So Ladies no need for cold hands, let's keep them warm in style!

For the love of the Muff! (part 2)

The previous post has been all about the size of the muff and the eye candy in the shape of fashion plates. I choose to use fashion plates instead of pictures of antique muffs because it's much easier to see the size of the muff. However there are such wonderful orginal nineteenth century muffs out there, that I can't resist the urge to show some of them.

Flamingo feather muff lined with sheep skin.

1800-1825

source: https://www.nationalmuseum.ch/

Shawl and Muff set of fur, American

1820-1840

source: http://library.artstor.org/

Pelerine and Muff set of Osterich feathers, French 

1830-1840

Source: http://daguerre.fr/

Fur Shawl and Muff, British

1855

Source: https://www.metmuseum.org/

Peacock feathers, ermine and linen muff, French

1860-1870

Source: http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/

Silk evening muff, American

1880 - 1889

Source: https://www.metmuseum.org/

Wool and silk muff, decorated with wings of a bird.

ca. 1886

source: https://www.metmuseum.org/

1890's Ermine Cape and Muff

source:http://www.fashionblog.com.ua/

Silk shawl and muff set, French

ca. 1895

Source: https://www.metmuseum.org/

Worth Walking Suit with Large fur muff

ca. 1905

http://un-certain-regard.eklablog.com/

Muff are still quite easy to buy here in the Netherlands. There are usually some for sale on Marktplaats and they are still being sold at antique and collectors fair. Even after looking at a whole lot of images I find it hard to distinguish the vintage from the antiques. Muffs stayed in fashion untill the 1950's/1960's and I suspect most muffs you can find are from that era. Having said that, there are some real gems out there, like these two currently sold at Marktplaats. They look like the real deal to me but I lack the knowledge to be sure. I escpecially like the fact that they both still have their original boxes.

If you want a muff buying is not your only option! There are lots of tutorials on how to make a (faux) fur muff. And if you don't want a fur muff you can also crochet or knit one!

Crochet Muff

Godey's Lady's book, February 1863

source: https://digitalcollections.nypl.org/

And if you are interested be sure to read A knitted muff from 1847 from the blog The Fashionable Past. 

Seller schmetterlingtag has often antique crochet and knitting patterns up for sale on Ebay. 

This is all I have time for today, more on how I made my own fur muff, next time!