Adventures in hat making: Edwardian hat, part 4, Fantasy vs Authenticity

First of all the ironing and flat drying of the buckram didn't turn out as well as I had hoped. The buckram has large bubbles now, instead of sharp folds. Needless to say that I am not really happy.

My design idea for my hat was; black wool crown and upperside of the brim and a purple silk underside of the brim. Maybe with a black lace overlay over the purple silk. And the top of the hat decorated with purple and black details.

Much like the Edwardian theatrical reproduction hat here.



I really love the way it looks! But I have been unable to find periode examples with a two different colors/materials fabric on the brim. Usually the brim (upper- and underside) and crown was made from the same material, often velvet or fur for winterhats. A wool hat was far more less common that I had expected.

The overall look of the reproduction hat that I liked so much, is that of an early clouche hat. Which was worn around 1918, too late to be suitable to be worn with my 1909's costume.

This leaves me deliberating my options, it all boils down to my fantasy vs authenticity.

Some images of authentic Edwardian hats for inspiration:


Mata Hari





Actress Lily Elsie in the role of the Merry Widow.

Adventures in hat making: Edwardian hat, part 3

I have flattend the buckram by putting it between two damp cloths ironing it and allowing it to dry flat. The end result isn't perfect and all the glue in the buckram fabric has disapeared, but I am hoping that it will be good enough to work with any way.

Currently I am sewing the wire to the cut buckram pieces.

And Rosy, thank you for the link. It had nog information about flattening the buckram, but I think it will be extremly useful for the rest of the hatmaking proces.

Adventures in hatmaking: Edwardian hat, part 2, Buckram question

I have never worked with buckram before and now I am faced with this, probably ridiculusly easy, question; "How do I flatten it?". The buckram I bought was send to me by mail, in order to fit in an envelope it has been folded... Before I can work with it, it needs to be flat! And I have really no clue at all whether or not I can iron it. I feel really silly...

So fellow costume - and hatmakers help me out! How can I flatten buckram.