Wednesday, 14 October 2015

1848's Jacket update

In March this year I started working on a early Victorian jacket with the 1848's jacket aka kacabajka pattern from Marmota's Dress Diaries but I didn't get it to work. I enlarged the pattern but the fit was really off for my body type/size. That could be due to the alterations I had made to the pattern because I wanted a round neckline and the jacket to close in front. Whatever the reasons were I didn't get it to work, got discoraged and put the project away waiting for new insights and inspiration.

We all havebeen here, more than once, right?!

I bought the Simplicity 4900 pattern. Hoping for a quick and easy fix but when it finally came in I saw that the skirt of the dress was cut in a different way, half a circle  sewn to the bodice instead of princess seams. Than I was used to for this type of jacket so I still wasn't content.

Simplicity 4900 Civil War Dress and Riding jacket

I ended up blending together four different patterns to make my version of the jacket. The pattern of the original 1848's was the base and I then I used the bodice pattern of Simplicity 4900 to get the right fit on my upper body, the Period Impressions paletot pattern for the skirt and the pattern of the bell sleeves from TrulyVictorian #560, Late Bustle Coat.

Truly Victorian pattern #560

I still very much a work in progress. There are some issues with attaching the faux fur in the middle of the back because that pattern pieces has a very round hemline. 

The other problem that I am facing is setting the sleeves in the right way. As the bodice and the sleeves are not from the same pattern and I always struggle with setting in sleeves.

My husband and son have nicknamed this jacket the Mrs. Santa Claus jacket. My only defense is; but that's how it looks in the picture!
And this is the image (right) that I am referring to:

Although the green coat on the left is longer than my jacket the fabric in the back does drape the same way and it has the same slight bell sleeves that I am looking for.
The red coat also has the right style of sleeves and the front looks like the pointed front of my jacket. Which is easier to see when the jacket is worn.


Hana - Marmota said...

As the authoress the original pattern, I'm curious to know, what exactly were the problem areas with the fit? I would imagine that raising the neckline could lead to problems in terms of it no longer having that nice mid-19th century dropped shoulder look and sitting too tight at the shoulder / armscye. I've run into a similar problem when raising the neckline of a modern pattern of mine - it looses some give if you add fabric where there was none. But if it's not just that... It might also have something to do with the proportions of the original pattern - I had to alter it further, and I would really appreciate knowing if the problems you ran into were in the same areas or not! Because if they were, I might have to alter my multisize, too. :-) I had to raise the shoulders (and add width to the sleeves accordingly), but then I thought that was a bit more of a personal alteration.

The coat is turning out really lovely despite the problems, I must say.

Esther said...

Hello Hana, first let me thank you for providing the wonderful pattern! I couldn't have made my coat without it. I think that most problems that I had with it where due to impatience/ shortage of time on my part. I ran in to the same problems as you did but I thought that most of them had to do with my figure. I have a very short and boxy ribcage and because of that little or no waist. :( The armsye and the sleeves where to narrow. When the coat fitted in my waist it became to wide in my shouders and raising the shoulders fixed problem a little but not enough. Than I ran out of time and used modern pattern to combine it with to solve the problems created by my modern figure.

And thank you for your compliment. I hope to be able to post pictures of it very nearly finished soon. Very nearly because I will be taking all the time that I need to sew all the soutache braid decorations.

Hana - Marmota said...

Thanks! I guess raising the shoulder and widening the sleeve it is, when I find time to tinker with the pattern further.