Costume Diaries

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2012-01-30T15:11:00.005+01:00

The 1950's disaster project, a pair of pink silk knickers, remained faithfull to it's name. When it was nearly finished I found out that it was just a little bit too small. I gained some weight during the holiday season and I haven't been able to lose it. The problem can be fixed by letting the knickers out. Which is a lot of work and I'd rather lose the weight.

To get over the frustration I started an other project. The fabric is a red taffeta with black velvet polkadot. The dress is already nicknamed by my loving husband and son to the Ladybug Dress. The pattern is B 5556 from the Butterick retro line. The original pattern is from 1955.

I think it will be a terrific party dress. All I need when it's finished, is a party to wear it to...

For those of you who'd like to follow me and my projects closer, please feel free to follow me on Facebook. The name of the page is the same as the name of my blog; Costume Diaries. I hope to see you there soon!

1950's Disaster project.

2012-01-11T11:25:00.000+01:00

Ever started a sewing project that should be quick and easy to do. Which turned out to be a nightmare? Historical costumes and vintage (style) clothing look more authentic when the correct underwear is worn. So I decided to make a pair of silk nickers from the 1950's. I already owned a 1950's slip and knickers pattern. And had worked on a mock-up model, decided that the pattern needed to be altered. And put the whole idea aside for later.

With new inspiration in the shape of my What Katie Did lingerie. I decided to start working with it again. I made the pattern pieces a little bit shorter and made another mock-up model. Although I encountered some problems, I decided to go ahead and start working on the real thing. It's going to be soft pink silk, with black satin decorations. I am quite sure that it is going to be lovely when it is finished. It looks promising so far. But the project has been a disaster from the start. I really dislike working with silk this thin, just because it is so slippery. And so may little (and some big) things have gone wrong and I have made so many mistakes. That I am completly frustrated at this moment with myself and with the project.

So I think it is time to put it aside for yet another day and to take a shower to clear my head. Progress on this small project is slow, but eventually it will be finished.

I hope....

Happy New Year

2012-01-01T13:51:00.002+01:00

Happy New Year Everyone!

I managed to finish this dress just in time for New Year's Eve. I started working on it in April 2011 but didn't have enough time to finish it for the 95th birthday of my husbands grandmother. The unfinished dress ended up on a shelf in my fabric closet.
I wanted to finish it before Christmas. But got the flu and bought a dress the day before Christmas instead. One of my friends dared me to finish it and demanded proof. So here it it!
The dress is an altered version of Simplicity pattern 3673.

I made a combination between version A and C and took out the darts. I tried sewing in the darts two times but both times the end result didn't please me. Running out of time I decided to take them out. If I would make this dress again, I would leave them in. Because it probably would be more flattering.
I keep falling in love with the 1950's style more and more. I have been saving money and ordered some What Katie Did Lingerie to go with my growing 1950's style wardrobe.

Up next will be the jacket of BUTTERICK #B5214 and the RETRO 1955 BUTTERICK #5556 dress.

But I also have to start working on next years re-enactment costumes and often they have more priority. My son has outgrown most of his costumes.

Anton Pieck Parade 2011

2011-12-12T15:12:00.003+01:00

This years Anton Pieck Parade was really nice. We had some sleepless nights due to bad weather forecasts but the weather turned out to be really nice. Sunny and dry! The public and re-enactors where full of holiday spirit and all had a good time.
I managed to stay in my corset for over twelve hours. Which means that it worked well for me. My costume, especially the hat, got a lot of compliments. And even I am satisfied with it (although I do still have some ideas to make it a little bit more interesting ;-) ). So I am a happy costumer!

One of my girlfriends wearing my green crinoline dress. Doesn't she look amazing.

Check our website http://www.zwartezwaan.net/ (foto's-2011) for more pictures.

This years Anton Pieck Parade on you tube:
http://youtu.be/F-vswutc5HI
http://youtu.be/eHygglNEJIQ
http://youtu.be/Y20D8ZwWWjA
http://youtu.be/jzVuRH46o_E

Lucetted cord scarf

2011-11-25T09:10:00.003+01:00

I thought the childeren I work with how to use a Lucet and really love to do it. The cords usually end up as bracelets, hairbands or even as necklaces. But other then that, we didn't know anything fun to do with the cords. Until I came across a website that made scarfs with them. It's called LSP Designs.
One of the childeren is the daughter of a girlfriend. And we decided that we would make a scarf for her mother, together.

8 lucetted cords

Started braiding

only halfway done

End result

I loved it as well...
But I will probably make one of the other scarfs on the website.

Edwardian Underbust Corset finished

2011-11-24T15:59:00.001+01:00

My Edwardian Underbust Corset is finished. I think it looks really lovely, but as it it my first it has some flaws. The biggest being that it doesn't give the desired waist reduction.

The problem is probably that I am really short waisted with a square ribcage. So I have to alter the pattern next time that I want to make it. Althought it is a little bit dissapointing. I knew from the start that there was a big chance that this would be the case. Making the "perfect" corset for your figures takes practice and fine tuning. The corset even if it's not perfect,is functional. So I will be using it for the upcoming event.

Making a pillowcase

2011-11-23T18:57:00.001+01:00

My (almost) ten year old son wanted to sew his own pillow. And I couldn't resist making a lot of pictures and sharing them with you. When I was about ten I sewed my first skirt. Funny how history repeats itself...

Cutting the fabric.

Ironing with a steam iron is a tricky business.

Pinning the fabric

Sewing!

Stuffing the pillow case.

Finished!

Do I really think he will follow in my costuming shoes? No, he is more a
technical kind a guy.

Figuring out how the sewingmachine works....

"Sigh"

Dear readers I hope you all can forgive me for acting like a proud mum ;-)
My Edwardian Underbust Corset pictures, I'll post the pictures later this week.

Coat alteration

2011-11-22T16:31:00.002+01:00

A good friend found a company that sells victorian style workmens clothing. The clothing they sell is not intended for re-enactment. The coat he bought had zippers and plastic buttons. So my husband and I made some alterations.

Before

After

We removed the zippers and added leather pocket welts. The plastic buttons where replaced with blue (they look lighter in the picture) wooden buttons. The buttons are from 1910.

The coat he bought looks a lot like an original pattern from 1877, sold by Ageless Patterns.

Edwardian Underbust Corset part 2

2011-11-12T19:04:00.001+01:00

Underbust corset laid out flat in a previous stage.

Current stage. Waiting for the spiral boning and eyelets that I ordered to come in... I finish the ends of the boing with nailpolish to prevent them for rusting.

Detail.

Nice blog, Corset fitting tips.

Edwardian Underbust Corset

2011-11-08T16:49:00.001+01:00

I finally started to work on my Edwardian underbust corset. I am a little bit, or actually more than a little bit, nervous. Because it is the first real corset that I will be making. The first result look promising. I like the effect of the mock-up model so far. The pictures and description that come with the pattern are clear and easy to understand. And even the sizing doesn't look like it needs to much work.

The pattern is Laughing Moon #113 Underbust Corset, view B the Corset Girdle.

I am not sure that I will be able to finish it in time for the Anton Pieck Parade in Haarlem on the 10th of December. This time is always really busy with my son's birthday (10th) and Sinterklaas. But if it's not finished I can wear the corset that I already have. So I'll try not to stress too much over it.

If been doing a lot of small crafty things the last weeks. Mainly trying out things to do with the childeren in school.

This is the "workshop" I will be doing, in two weeks time. Making a heychain/pursehanger with ribbons and beads. Easy and fun to do with quick results. I like it and hope they will do too!

My son and I made pompoms together and he really like it! Not sure what to do with it. Something traditional like decorations for winterhats, scarfs etc... Or something a little bit out of the box like making christmas decorations for in the tree... Or something a little bit crafty like making necklaces with them.

This scarf I knitted in one evening. It's perfect for impatient knitters like me!

Happy Halloween

2011-10-31T13:41:00.000+01:00

To those of you who wish to celebrate it; Happy Halloween.

Here in the Netherlands celebarating Halloween isn't widespread. We've been celebrating it for a few years now thanks to some American friends. For us it has become a tradition to spend the day with friends.

Morticia Addams was the inspiration for my costume and make-up. I finally ended up wearing the dress I had made for it. I couldn't come up with another plan. And after some ironing it didn't look so bad.

Paint it Black

2011-10-27T19:06:00.003+02:00

I haven't blogged for a while but doesn't mean I haven't been doing anything. I've been working on several things, some more successful than others.

I've tried to sew a princess seam dress from a black stretch fabric. This was my second attempt ever to sew stretch fabric. And although I followed the instruction manual and asked other skilled seamstresses for advice. The seams still turned out slightly wrinkled. It was meant to be the base of my halloween costume but I won't use it. I'll use clothing items I have in my closet instead.

Testrun of my halloween make-up. Note to self don't try to make a picture while riding a broom ;-)

Another much easier job was making a wizards robe for my son. We didn't buy a pattern but my husband looked at some pictures and cut the fabric directly. I tried to buy a cheap fabric, because it is only a halloween costume. But came home with a black wool fabric. It turned out nice an warm. Which is important as we will be attending an outdoor Halloween event. Pictures will follow ofcourse.

During my autumn break we had a lot of friends coming to visit. One of them brougth me a gift I absolutely love, an black silk and lace victorian bodice/shirtwaist.

Thank you so very much, Mark! x

While browsing Ebay I stumbled upon a pair of black leather victorian reproduction ankleboots. Handmade at
Anello & Davide.

And ofcourse I couldn't resist.

Delightful little item

2011-09-29T14:25:00.005+02:00

Sometimes a woman needs to treat herself with a little splendour. When I saw this necklace with cameo I just couldn't resist. Although I love the pendant, I really bought it for the necklace. The cameo and necklace where sold as Edwardian. But the haircut of the lady on the cameo suggests 1920's -1930's to me.

hairarchives.com

Sometimes the Edwardian era is expanded to the signing of the Treaty of Versailles in 1919 years after King Edward's death in 1910. So I guess you could still call it Edwardian.

I intend to wear the necklace with my delicate white Edwardian blouse but with a camee that is a little bit older. The necklace is short so it should fit nicely around the high lace collar.

The original color of all these laces was 1970's brown. I was as bold to dye them black in order to make the more useful. On the far right an original colored pieces of lace. Which I did think was lovely but I couldn't use it as it was.

I am thinking about using the black lace for a black Edwardian (Tea?)Gown. Something along the lines of these dresses.

It would be a challange to remain authentic as possible and still make it fancy enough to wear to gothic/fantasy events like Castlefest and the Elf fantasy Fair.

Lace and flower

2011-09-17T15:45:00.017+02:00

A friend gave me this whole stack of lace. Which belonged to the shop inventory of her aunt long ago. It had been stored in a damp attic for years. So I will be washing, drying and ironing all this lovely lace for the next couple of weeks...

I never was really statisfied with the decoration on my Edwardian hat. Untill I found this lovely burgundy colored flower. Now it's finally completly finished.

Although I love doing event, I also love the quiet time of the year. Now I have time to do the other things I love so much as well. Writing short stories and poems, doing costume research and ofcourse sewing!

Weekend at the Castletower of IJsselstein.

2011-09-12T14:25:00.024+02:00

We had our last weekend long event of this year on the 10th and 11th of September at the Castletower of IJsselstein. The days where mostly dry and sunny. But during the night the weather got so bad that we deciced to go home. This was a first in all the years we are doing Living History. Luck was on our side. Because when we came back Sunday morning nothing was really damaged.

Folker was making candles

Remco was casting pewter.

Ariane was doing sprang and nalebinding.

And I was dyeing with natural dyes. Weld with iron sulfate (green)on Saturday. And walnut husks (brown)on Sunday. Both cloths turned out nicely so I can make new costumes this winter.

More images can be found on our website De Zwarte Zwaan go to tab foto's (pictures) and choose 2011.

Odds and ends

2011-08-29T13:49:00.002+02:00

This weekend we attended the international vikingmarket at the Archeon. Two days earlier I finally finished a tunic for a little viking. The son of friends. It had been laying around nearly finished since the beginning of July.

The lovely tapewoven trim was a gift from Arda Sigibertsdottr from Sibbe Girbeson.

My Edwardian blouse is almost finished. I only need to sew the buttonholes and buttons on. I really dislike sewing buttonholes because often they don't turn out as nice as I would like.

Here are some pictures from the Vikingmarket at the Archeon. We had a lot of rain, but still had a great weekend.

Edwardian Bust Support

2011-08-08T13:46:00.001+02:00

While thinking about my next project, an Edwardian underbust corset. I once again started wandering what did the Edwardian ladies wear for bust support. (I know I definitely need some.)

The answer is a Bust Bodice or a bust improver!

http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/11221-popup.html

Woman's Bust Bodice, 1895

Woman's Bust Bodice, 1902

http://www.flickr.com/photos/historika/5576043389/

More early bra's

French Bust Bodice, ca. 1905

Bridal corset. Silk and satin. Britain, 1905.

Bust bodice, by Spirella Corsets. Cotton batiste trimmed with machine lace trim. Britain, c.1908-14.

Edwardian Bust Bodice, ca 1913

A Turn Toward the Bust: Early Twentieth Century

History of brassieres (Wikipedia)

Flickr - Late Victorian Altered Bust Bodice

Bras and Girdles Fashion History

Next question; How do I make one?

I might try something like this:

"...In 1910, Mary Phelps Jacob (known later in life as Caresse Crosby), a 19-year-old New York socialite, purchased a sheer evening gown for a social event. At that time, the only acceptable undergarment was a corset stiffened with whalebone. Polly had large breasts and found that the whalebone visibly poked out around her plunging neckline and from under the sheer fabric. Dissatisfied with this arrangement, she worked with her maid to fashion two silk handkerchiefs together with some pink ribbon and cord.[40]:7 [41] Her innovation drew immediate attention that evening, and at the request of family and friends, she made more of her new device..." source wikipedia

Progress on Edwardian style shirtwaist/blouse

2011-08-04T17:21:00.000+02:00

Front panel of the blouse with lace inserts. Hopoefully it will look better after it is washed, ironed and stiffened with starch.

The inside of the sleeve before the lace inserts are finished. These seams are less than half a centimeter!

Just because it makes me happy

2011-07-26T19:20:00.001+02:00

Nothing really special. I just saw the beads and just have to have them. The two bracelets are made to be worn together. But also look nice when worn alone. I just love the little babooskha en geisha beads.
One I've made pink/purple and blue to match all my purple outfits, the other is multi-color.

Terra Maris, 12th century Motte-and-bailey castle reconstruction

2011-07-25T15:19:00.003+02:00

During our vacation this year we visited Terra Maris, museum for the natural scenery of the province of Zeeland. Although we loved the museum and the surrounding gardens we mainly visited it for the 12th century Motte-and-bailey castle reconstruction they have. There are only three of these reconstructions in Europe. The other two are in France and in Germany. As these reconstructions are rare and the furniture inside is made by a good friend, Mark Beusen. We decided to visit it while on vacation in Zeeland.

Nice view on Castle Westhoven.

Here are some more pictures of Westhove Castle

A rare view a 12th century castle and a 17th century castle side by side.

Lace collar and insert.

2011-07-17T11:06:00.004+02:00

Yesterday I worked on a lace collar and insert for an Edwardian shirtwaist. The lace I used is all cotton and vintage/antique. So it has flaws and some parts are quite fragile. But old lace is so much more delicate and elegant than most modern laces available in stores. I lined the insert with white chiffon silk to protect it a little from the strain of wearing.

Another day at the Archeon

2011-07-10T13:19:00.000+02:00

Yesterday was another relaxed day in the Archeon. We where chatting with friends and enjoying the view of the kids playing together. I even finished a pair of white nalebound socks I started working on earlier.

Summer Necklace

2011-06-23T10:13:00.002+02:00

The last weeks befor my sons summervacation are always quite hectic. It really feels like being on a riding train. With no way to get off and no stops untill the vacation. With most of my family-in-law having their birthdays in May. The feeling and reality of not having any time for ourselves starts then. So I am not getting any costuming done. As I can't sit entirly still without getting a frustrated. I am doing small projects like this necklace. It is made with beach shells, fresh water pearls and glass beads. Hopefully this summer necklace will entice the sun to come out and play. As we haven't seen her in quite a while.

Much like my son I am looking forward to the summer vacation. When we both finally have the time to do what we want.

Fake!

2011-06-15T11:38:00.000+02:00

Usually I don't buy dresses on ebay. But the H&M Bohemian Deluxe maxidress in my size was gone before I could even blink... So I made an exception and started to look on ebay. There I found one and bought it. Now, not only, I am stuck with a knock-off but it's also too small!
I can only get a refund for the fee off the dress (minus shipping)and I would have to send the dress back. The total amount of money that I lose. Is almost as much as the dress has cost.
The other option she gave me was exchange for another dress. This would mean pay shipping for the dress that I have. But all her dresses are too small!

Lesson learned, never buy dresses on Ebay....

Whitsun Viking market at the Archeon

2011-06-14T13:26:00.002+02:00

Fleur in the Hedeby style viking outfit that I've been working on.

Heartsick

2011-06-02T19:30:00.000+02:00

While looking at the pintucks on my Edwardian Shirtwaist pattern from Folkwear I feel a little heartsick. And I wonder does my Edwardian Shirtwaist really, I mean really need them? I messed them up the last time I tried and if I am honest. I don't think I've got the courage to try again. Pintucks are really specific for the period and I loooooovvvvveeee the way they look. But they are an awful lot of work and you have to be really really accurate to make it work. Uhm....

For those of you who can read Dutch or for those of you who like to look at our re-enactment picutures our new website is launched.
You can find it here http://www.zwartezwaan.net/ You can find the pictures under the foto's tab.

Dag van het Park, Capelle aan de IJssel

2011-05-30T11:20:00.001+02:00

Last year we did the same event, and it was supposed to be a one time thing. But it never really got of the ground due to the bad weather. As the organisation liked what they saw. Theydecided to try again this year. At the start, this event looked rather gloomy. As it was once again cold, with a lot of wind and (a little bit) wet. But luckily for all, the weather became great around noon. And we had a lot of visitors!

Edwardian Silver Marcasite Cameo Pendant / Brooch

2011-05-26T08:59:00.000+02:00

I have been in love with Cameo brooches and pendants since I was little. But untill recently I could never find one that I liked and could afford. I purchased this one on Ebay a little while ago and it came in yesterday. It goes very well with silver edwardian (style?) and marcasite earrings, bracelet and ring that I have. I will wear it with my Purple Edwardian Costume later this year.

Currently I am working on a viking costume(undertunic, tunic, apron dress and shawl) for the daughter of a friend. I will post pictures of it after Whitsun. When this costume is finished I can resume working on a 50's style dress that I was working on. But what I really would like to do is start working on my Edwardian blouse.

Coming sunday we will have our only medieval event of the year. Although I love doing early medieval/viking re-enactment, I miss doing medieval events. And with that the "excuse" to make medieval costumes. It makes no sense making them, when you don't get a chance to wear it....

The Borger Hunebed Centre

2011-05-16T14:41:00.000+02:00

The weather was not really good but not really bad either. The company however was great! Yesterday we had a lovely time at the
The Borger Hunebed Centre with our vikingfriends and family! My little sister came to see us with her boyfriend. A uncle and aunt of my husband came by as well.

The reconstructed iron age house at the site.

No she's not mine, she's only borrowed but isn't she cute as a button!

My brother-in-law getting archery lessons.

I always love to wear historical costumes at historical sites...

My sister made this lovely picture of the three of us!

Edwardian Costume

2011-05-06T11:39:00.004+02:00

Here a picture of the complete costume worn with fur collar and muff. The collar was a gift of an aunt from my husband. She used to wear it in the 1960's and 70's. The muff was bought second hand on-line.

Adventures in hat making: part 11, Edwardian hat finished!

2011-05-04T20:35:00.000+02:00

Black wool felt, large brimmed edwardian hat. Decoration: double bow and inside lining are made of bordeaux colored silk. Brim edging is a black satin ribbon. Black marabou feathers, one large black osterich feather and a black feather rose. The brim has a curve but that doesn't show when hat when the hat is lying down.

The pattern I used is the Universal Round brimmed, Straight Sided Crown Hat Pattern from Lynn McMasters

Hat front

Hat side

Hat back

Hat side

Hat top

Hat inside

My cat impersonating a hat. Or reminding me that she is much more beautiful and cuter than a hat.

You will have to wait at least until the weekend before I can post a picture of me wearing it with my costume. Sorry!

Duck handle

2011-04-28T13:37:00.004+02:00

Yesterday my son and I visited his great grandmother (from his father's side) and she gave me this lovely duck handle. Which I presume is made from celluloid, an early type of plastic. At the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, often used to replace ivory and bone.

Although it's not the "real" thing and I have no clue how old it is. I do think it's lovely and my husband will use it to make a victorian/edwardian style walking cane for me. Or maybe it will end up as the handle of a parasol or umbrella.

First day "event" of the year.

2011-04-18T16:39:00.005+02:00

It was no big event, just a day in the Archeon with friends. But we had a really great time.

Tunic for a little viking

2011-04-08T15:57:00.006+02:00

I am so happy that I managed to make a tunic for my son. Out of small pieces of fabric, we had left over from other projects. The brownishyellow is dyed with unionskins, the orangered has been dyed with madder. My son wants some embroidery on the neckline. But this will have to wait a little while. My next project will be a viking outfit for a young lady, the daughter of friends.

Adventures in hat making: Edwardian hat, part 10, progress report

2011-04-07T18:57:00.011+02:00

Recently this Edwardian hat dated to 1912-1915 was for sale on Ebay. It is a little bit later than the period that I am aiming for. Which is 1909, but it has the same style of underbrim as my hat. And to my great relieve the date is not that far off. ;-)

Next step is (hand)sewing the satin ribbon the the side of the brim. And sewing the top of the hat to the brim. Both will have to be done by my husband, who has more strength in his hands then I do. Althoug I know that I am very lucky that he is kind enough to do it for me. I don't like having to depend on someone else, because I would like to finish this project as soon as possible. And now I have to wait, patiently, until he has the time. After he's done the best part of making a hat can begin; decorating!

Edwardian boater style hat

2011-04-06T16:29:00.006+02:00

Edwardian ladies cycling outfit

Edwardian ladies golfing outfit.

I just purchased this Edwardian Boater style hat. It's probably from the 1970's but does have the right style for my "practical" Edwardian Spring Costume Set. It has a beige cotton skirt, a white cotton blouse and a ladies vest. I still need to make a black or dark blue bow tie. The skirt and the blouse need some alterations.

This blouse used to have pintucks but I never was really satisfied with how they came out. I thought it looked rather messy. So I replaced the pintucks with wide lace, that I lined with silk.

Adventures in hat making: Edwardian hat, part 9

2011-04-01T15:04:00.009+02:00

The wonderunder that I used, to glue the two parts of my brim together. Got under my iron without me knowing it. And made a big white stain on the black woollen fabric ! Ofcourse I can't remove the stain.

The good news is that the answer is simple; a pleated, purple silk fabric over the underside of the brim. Just like I really wanted all along, for extra dramatic flair, but couldn't document for the Edwardian age.

After desperately searching the internet I found these pictures of Camille Clifford with the same type of hat.

The bad news is that I had to order new silk fabric. I think I am going to nickname this hat, the money pit!

Here more, not so period, but ever so lovely, inspiration for the hat.

Audrey Hepburn in My Fair Lady

Viking Jewellery

2011-03-21T10:31:00.002+01:00

One of the things I like about Living History and re-enactment is the constant challenge to strive for a high(er) level of authenticity. Theories change with each new archeological find. But more important than that is my personal development. When I begun doing viking re-enactment I was satisfied doing "generic" viking. My first costume was one of commericially dyed wool. The costume I wear now I have dyed myself with natural dyes that where used in the viking period. This costume is still quite generic, the next one I'll try to make the next one more era and region specific.

A year or so ago a fellow re-enactor, who knows I love to do research, pointed out to me that the jewellery I wore was from different regions and eras. While I still support the theory that jewellery was often inherted and that vikings traded, and would have worn jewellery from different places and different times. I liked the idea of being able to show my viking identity with my jewellery as well as with my costume.

My viking persona is ninth century danish. Who started out in Ribe and has migrated, over land, from Danmark to the Low Countries.

And this was my first purchase:

A pair of silver plated tortoise brooches, found in Oldenburg, Germany. And Bornholm Danmark. From the 8-9.century. They are small and lightweight and I absolutely love them!

These brooches are for sale here:

Das Podol I bought mine here and was really statisfied with the excellent service. Good communication and fast delivery!

The Gripping Beast

A few years ago I bought this trefoil brooch from Ratatoskr Which is lucky enough for me also Danish. The original can be found in Moesgard Museum, Denmark.

Das Podol also has a matching bronze beltbuckle and beltend set from 9-10th century Haithabu. As they are from the right period and region I might be buying them later on.

Edwardian Combination Underwear Progress Update

2011-03-17T10:13:00.003+01:00

My Edwardian Combination Underwear Camisole with drawers is almost finished. I only have to sew buttonholes, add buttons and change the dark blue ribbon for a lighter blue. To match the color in the decoration and the ribbon used for the neckline and armholes. I am thinking about adding an application or embriodery to the camisole. The pattern has a lovely and simple pattern for it.

If I would make this garment again I would use a lighter and thinner cotton fabric. To improve the drape and the "dainty" effect. The period examples I usually find in the Netherlands are made from the same type of white cotton fabric that I have used. While it is practical because of it's strength and durability. It doesn't have the Edwardian charme that I love so much. But the stiffness of the fabric will improve with wash and wear. When I started planning this garment I couldn't find the muslin cotton fabric that I wanted, but a while ago I found a affordable Dutch supplier!

http://www.stoftotverven.nl

A Good day to Dye

2011-03-13T12:51:00.003+01:00

Yesterday we took advantage of the nice weather. We went to a friends house to work on some projects with a friend in his garden. I was overdying a piece of purple cochenille wool with madder. While my husband learned blacksmithing from our friend Mark. Who's son was inside working on his victorian steampunk outfit. Our son amused himself, as only a nine year old boy can, with making a sharp end to a stick.

Stirring the dyebath with a large wooden spoon. Feeling a little bit like an old fashioned witch in fairytale.

My husband is making his own firestrike while our son is looking.

Mark is also blacksmithing...

The youngest of the lot,having fun!

Edwardian Combination Underwear

2011-03-08T10:33:00.010+01:00

Currently I am making a new Edwardian underwear set. It's the Past Patterns Ladies Underwear Combination, the version with circular drawers. The pattern is for closed drawers. But I converted it to open drawers for convenience. I don't want to have to take of my entire costume everytime I need to go to the bathroom. The circular drawers are a little bit fuller that I thought they would be. Which makes them look a little like a skirt when the combination underwear is on. Which is nice. But I wonder if I will still be able to wear a petticoat combination over it.

Here are some period examples

http://www.corsetsandcrinolines.com/vintagestore/index.php/rare-antique-edwardian-skirt-combination-underwear

http://www.corsetsandcrinolines.com/forsale.php?dep=ladies

http://www.etsy.com/listing/26891952/victorian-extra-long-white

http://edwardianpromenade.com/fashion/edwardians-unbuttoned/ Really interesting blog!!!!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/faces_of_yore/1371867525/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/faces_of_yore/1347598715/

Adventures in hat making: Edwardian hat, part 8, Searching for inspiration

2011-02-25T16:07:00.006+01:00

Isn't this picture amazing! I just love the hat, it's a fine example of an extravagant Edwardian hat. It's the Portrait of the Marchesa Luisa Casati, with a Greyhound by Giovanni Boldini, dated to 1908.

More,funny, Edwardian hat pictures:

Vintage Pix, Merry Widow Hats.

Moody Mommy's Marvelous Postcards Blog, Merry Widow Hat Postcards.

The brim of the hat turned out not being rigid enough to retain the shape that I want. So I am going to make a wire frame for it. This is the look that I am currently aiming at.

Bird of Paradise

2011-02-17T12:30:00.008+01:00

a short story

I am not, by any standards, a “modern” woman. As my main interest is making reproductions of historical costumes. I guess none of you will be surprised. I like things old, I like antique things, because often there is a story behind it. And I like stories.

I have this little old sewing implement, that I often use. It’s hideous orange color betrays that it dates back to the 1970’s . It is a hemming gauge that used to be from my maternal grandmother. She was a talented seamstress, like my mum. When I grew up my mother and I didn’t have much money. As a single mother my mum had to be creative to make ends meet. But I always looked neat, tidy and fashionable. She made very sure of that. My happiest childhood memories are of my mother happily sewing something behind her sewing machine. And me playing with my Barbie dolls or picking up the pins from the floor that she had lost.

When I grew older my mother always encouraged me to have my own authentic sense of style. And faithfully made my outfits the way I wanted them to be. Even if they were a little bit or very different. I still like my clothing to be a little bit different. That doesn’t mean I never wear jeans and a sweater. But more often than not my favorite outfits, especially my dresses, are colorful and/or different. This used to annoy my ex-boyfriend. Who wanted me to dress (and behave) more grown up. This meant “normal” clothes in grey’s , beige’s , blacks and dark blue’s. That just wasn’t me… I used to wonder if my husband never got annoyed with my slightly off-beat sense of fashion. That was, until I heard him lovingly and proudly tell, one of my sisters. That he loves the way I stand out in the crowd. Colorful and different, like a butterfly, fairy or a bird of paradise.

A couple of years ago, my son drew a picture of his mum and dad. Dad was a man living inside a tree. I was a fairy fluttering in the sky.

And guess what, I just love fairies! Especially Tinkerbell. I like creatures small, cute, fierce, cocky and slightly annoying. And when I say that, my husband smiles and says: “that so typically you…”

When I use my little hemming gauge I think of the generations of costumers before me. I come from a long line of people working with textiles. I am grateful that I inherited their talent. And the way that talent enables me to create the things I like, the way I like them.

Adventures in hat making: Edwardian hat, part 7, Struggling with Bows

2011-02-11T11:04:00.005+01:00

Sometimes there's just no getting away from the fact that English is not my native language. While waiting for the Wonder Under, that I have ordered, to come in. I decided to start working on the hat decoration. I just couldn't make heads or tails of the description how to make the bows! After struggling for a couple of hours and trying every way I could think of. I gave up and just made a simple fabric bow.

The decoration just might end up looking like this:

Adventures in hat making: Edwardian hat, part 6, FLAT!!!

2011-02-04T10:47:00.002+01:00

Yesssssss, the buckram base of the brim is finally FLAT!!!!

"dances around the house with a HUGE smile"

Now I can start sewing the wire to the edge of the brim.
I'll definitely make time today to do that.

Adventures in hat making: Edwardian hat, part 5

2011-01-28T09:36:00.009+01:00

I haven't touched this project since the beginning of december, but I'd never gotten round to showing the progress I had made with it. So here it is.

The buckram base of the brim. Instead of having sharp creases it's now turned bubbly. I guess I don't have to tell you that this is bad.

BTW the diameter of the hat is a stunning 63 cm.

The top of the hat has turned out nicely. This is the buckram and wire base with mull.The next step will be covering it with black wool felt fabric.

I've got feathers to decorate my hat! And I am extremely happy with that! I was searching on the internet for a while and couldn't find anything affordable. When I found these in a local shop. There a three clusters of black feathers and one of purple feathers. These are more purple then they appear on the photograph, and the difference between the black and purple feathers is much less visible. Which is a good thing as I am not completly happy with how they look with the plum silk fabric I have for the bow and other hat decorations.

The brim is turning out to being quite a nightmare. I have ironed it flat with a hot steam iron and stuck it between two wooden boards. Hopefully it will be flat when it's dry.

1940's Glamour Girl Dress

2011-01-01T13:31:00.003+01:00

When my husbands grandmother, a former seamstress herself, gave me this lovely silky pink fabric. I immediately thought of the Folkwear #233 Glamour Girl dress pattern, which is a 1940's evening gown, that I had.

I wore this dress New Years Eve, but although I love it, the color and style are amazing. I felt like a little girl who borrowed her mums best dress. So it will have to wait in my closet until I feel I have grown into it.

Happy New Year Everyone!

50's style Snowflake dress

2010-12-27T12:58:00.008+01:00

Here is a picture of my 50's style dress in blue chinese "silk" with white and violet snowflakes.

Better picture of the dress but a lot less christmassy...

The pattern I used was M5292 by McCall's.

detail of fabric.

My favorite picture of this christmas, is by far this one, of my son and me.

The Night Before Christmas

2010-12-24T09:56:00.003+01:00

'Twas the night before Christmas, when all through the house
Not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse;...

Well actually I am working on finishing my dress for Christmas!
Luckily, it's not christmas eve yet.
And hopefully it will be finished before dinner.

I couldn't find a dress that I liked, and could afford, in the stores.
And complained to my husband about having nothing to wear. He then pointed to my fabric stash and my clothing patterns. So I decided to make something myself.
It a 50's style dress in blue chinese "silk" with white snowflakes.
Pictures of the dress will follow on December the 27th.

Merry Christmas everyone!

Anton Pieck Parade 2010

2010-12-13T20:29:00.009+01:00

Last Saturday we attended, one of our favorite events, de Anton Pieck Parade, a small victorian/edwardian event, in Haarlem. Here are some images.

They make for good christmas cards! So I would like to take this opportunity to wish you all: A Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Our crafts for this day where...

Drawing.

Sewing.
I actually nearly finished the inside of my long woollen victorian coat.

Anton Pieck Parade on You Tube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFalSNbnCck

Saint Nicolas is almost gone...

2010-12-05T16:55:00.008+01:00

With my sons birthdaypartymarathon, we always seem to end up celebrating it about three or four times. And with Saint Nicolas almost gone, it is high time to start working on the final preprations for the Anton Pieck Parade on the 11th of December in Haarlem.

The Anton Pieck Parade is a Victorian/Edwardian event, much like the better known Dickensevents, but not based upon the stories by Dickens but on the drawings of Anton Pieck. Who lived and worked in Haarlem, the Netherlands. As he also made the illustrations for, a version of, A Christmas Carol well known and popular Dickens characters, like Scrooge, also attend the event.

In a week's time I have to make:

* my husband a new silk tie, and when I am on it, a spiffy silk Edwardian tie for myself as well.
* Finally(!), finish the inside of the long black wool victorian coat I made and wore last year. Which means covering the seams with bias band, the bais bands have to be sewn in by hand. Next year I intend to wear my purple Edwardian ouft, so knowing me, if I don't finish the coat this year it will never be finished...
* (re-)braid my fake hairbun. A job that I really hate, because I am really bad at it. Last time a friend did it for me.
* sew a few small roses on my overskirt
and
* re-decorate my top hat.

So my current project, my Edwardian hat, has to wait, at least, untill next week! I had made some pictures of the various stages the buckram hatbase has gone to up untill now, but I seem to have deleted them from my computer. And I have already erased them from my photocamera. So you will have to wait a little bit longer for pictures.

We celebrated Sint Nicolaseve yesterday, instead of today, with three small childeren in the family we didn't feel we had a choice. And I got this really magnificent book Men's Clothing & Fabrics, in the 1890's.

Thank you, Saint Nicolas!

Adventures in hat making: Edwardian hat, part 4, Fantasy vs Authenticity

2010-11-22T10:58:00.006+01:00

First of all the ironing and flat drying of the buckram didn't turn out as well as I had hoped. The buckram has large bubbles now, instead of sharp folds. Needless to say that I am not really happy.

My design idea for my hat was; black wool crown and upperside of the brim and a purple silk underside of the brim. Maybe with a black lace overlay over the purple silk. And the top of the hat decorated with purple and black details.

Much like the Edwardian theatrical reproduction hat here.

I really love the way it looks! But I have been unable to find periode examples with a two different colors/materials fabric on the brim. Usually the brim (upper- and underside) and crown was made from the same material, often velvet or fur for winterhats. A wool hat was far more less common that I had expected.

The overall look of the reproduction hat that I liked so much, is that of an early clouche hat. Which was worn around 1918, too late to be suitable to be worn with my 1909's costume.

This leaves me deliberating my options, it all boils down to my fantasy vs authenticity.

Some images of authentic Edwardian hats for inspiration:

Mata Hari

Actress Lily Elsie in the role of the Merry Widow.

Adventures in hat making: Edwardian hat, part 3

2010-11-21T16:28:00.003+01:00

I have flattend the buckram by putting it between two damp cloths ironing it and allowing it to dry flat. The end result isn't perfect and all the glue in the buckram fabric has disapeared, but I am hoping that it will be good enough to work with any way.

Currently I am sewing the wire to the cut buckram pieces.

And Rosy, thank you for the link. It had nog information about flattening the buckram, but I think it will be extremly useful for the rest of the hatmaking proces.

Adventures in hatmaking: Edwardian hat, part 2, Buckram question

2010-11-12T14:55:00.004+01:00

I have never worked with buckram before and now I am faced with this, probably ridiculusly easy, question; "How do I flatten it?". The buckram I bought was send to me by mail, in order to fit in an envelope it has been folded... Before I can work with it, it needs to be flat! And I have really no clue at all whether or not I can iron it. I feel really silly...

So fellow costume - and hatmakers help me out! How can I flatten buckram.

Adventures in hat making: Edwardian hat

2010-10-24T17:29:00.014+02:00

Just some of the supplies and this is supposed to become a hat one day...

Today I cut the pattern pieces for my Edwardian hat and put aside the things I need to make the basic hat. Although I have a pattern for the hat, Universal Round Brimmed, Straight Sided Crown, Hatpattern by Lynn Mc Masters I felt a little overwhelmed while reading the instructions for the first time.

I have used one of her patterns before and the hat turned out just fine.
http://costumediaries.blogspot.com/2009/02/adventures-in-victorian-hat-making.html

I made a cardboard mock-up in the size required for the version I intended to make, but decided that it is too big for me. Even if Edwardian hat are supposed to be HUGE. I would like to be able to wear it without feeling ridiculous and without straining my neck, so I will make the brim smaller.

This is me, feeling rather silly

The idea is to make a black hat with purple details and black and purple decorations.

Some examples from the period, proving that an Edwardian hat is supposed to be HUGE.

But the size of the brim did vary a lot, so I guess I can make the brim a little bit smaller without the hat losing to much of it's character.

Edwardian Coat Suit; Historical Costume Inspiration Festival Entry

2010-10-07T18:37:00.026+02:00

Historical Costume Inspiration Festival

Inspiration:
Purple, Liberty&Co, wool and silk shantung walking costume, dated ca. 1906-1907, part of the Gemeentemuseum Den Haag collection. Here on display during the exhibition Haagse Hofmode.

My version of the skirt is made from purple wool, with a detached corselette aka swiss waist.The original skirt was a corset skirt with the corselette attached. I made it with a detached corselette to make the costume more versatile.

Corselette

Embriodery made after an Self Transferable Embroidery Pattern, from May of 1908 out of McCall’s Magazine.

The skirt worn with the matching coat. The coat has big black glass buttons which are vintage and probably date back to 1910-1920 and silk details.

On page 78 of Haute Couture & Prêt-à-Porter, fashion 1750-2000, by Ietse Meij you can find an image of the coat that went with the original skirt. I am not allowed to publish the image here, due to copyright.

Although the coat has Edwardian features it is not typical for a Edwardian Costume, which ofcourse is logical, as it is a Liberty& Co costume. So again I decided not to try and copy the coat but make a, more recognizable for the period, Edwardian coat. Like the ones depicted here in an ad from Grands Magasins Du Printemps, Paris, 1909.

Coat and skirt are made with the Edwardian Coat Suit pattern by Rocking Horse Farm. The white cotton blouse is an altered version of The Gibson Girl Blouse from Folkwear. And the Corselette is made with Truly Victorian #492, 1890's Corselets.

The costume is worn with the correct underpinnings, for more information go to A Victorian Wardrobe and click on Edwardian Walking Costume.

Next stop will be a BIG Edwardian hat!

Edwardian Coat Suit

2010-10-03T17:36:00.003+02:00

Today I tried on my Edwardian Coat Suit, with all the other costume parts (blouse, underwear etc.), underneath it. And to my great delight discovered that the only thing that has to be altered is the armhole. Hurraaaaaayyyy!!! And then it can be finished!

The picture doesn't do the suit justice: it is made from purple wool. The collar and the decorative strip, on bottom, the sleeves are from purple silk.

Website Update

2010-10-02T19:07:00.003+02:00

Being sick and tired of being sick and tired, since the last event, and not getting any costuming done. I updated the picture gallery of our Muninn and Huginn website. So everything has it's upside I guess !

I hope I'll be able to do some costuming soon, because I am getting really frustrated.

Vikingdays at the Viking Information Center at Wieringen

2010-09-20T20:01:00.003+02:00

Heavy rain and a lot of wind, not much to do, but gather under the shelters and chat.Ofcourse, most of us are really good at that!

Aud comparing notes with a fellow re-enactor.

Me showing off something to dear viking friends, and newly weds, Jan-Simon and Chantal. My wedding gift was, ofcourse, a plant dyed silk veil.

Again a wet event, it rained all day. We weren't motivated to make any pictures. Luckily enough a kind viking lady named Hester Schmeitz did make pictures. So at least we can prove we attended the event!

Flashback!

2010-09-15T14:03:00.007+02:00

Today I was looking through our old photo's and I found these...

October 1997

Our first attempt of something medievalisch.

March 2002

Looking very tired!
Authenticity was still not my main concern back then.

March 2002

A better picture of my son in his very first tunic.

Vikingmarket Archeon

2010-09-13T11:23:00.013+02:00

The vikingmarket in the Archeon was wet so there where not much visitors. Nevertheless we did have a really good time, cathing up with friends, most of them I only see at events. And usually there is not much time to chat during the openinghours. So I took advantage, and made the best of, the situation. After this weekend I became ill from being cold and wet, my fibromyalgie was acting up again big time. And everything was muddy and wet, all the clothes had to be washed. The tent was hung to dry in our living room and he rain shelter in the basement. Hence I didn't have time or energy to write this post earlier.

To be honest I am not looking forward, to what promises to be another wet event, this coming weekend. We will be attending a small vikingevent then, at the viking information center, on Sunday.

Now for something completly different..

The purple Edwardian coat is hanging untouched, since the previous post, in the closet. I am quite fed up with the whole Edwardian Costume project at this moment. I'll see if I have time tonight to fit the whole outfit, or at least the (semi)finished part of it. To see if it are just the armholes that need adjustment or that the entire coat turned out to wide. I am afraid that it will be the latter.

Grmbl

2010-08-25T09:58:00.006+02:00

I have sewn in the sleeves yesterday and I am happy with the overall look of the coat, but the coat turned out to wide in the shoulders. The schoulders seams are at least an inch too low.

Ofcourse this can be fixed. Either by taking the coat, which might give problems at the hips, and would mean removing the collar. Or by altering the armscye. For best results a combination of both is probably the best solution. But at this moment I just don't have the time, I have to start packing for the vikingmarket this weekend at the Archeon. Or the energy, to think or do, something about it. My fibromyalgie is acting up, big time, which isn't surprising, as autumn deciced to come early in the Netherlands.

All in all I am getting quite frustrated but I always knew this costume would be a long-term project. My current mantra is: it's the end result that counts.

Newspaper article, Museum Dorestad Demo

2010-08-19T14:11:00.003+02:00

For more pictures of Audrey and me working click here:
http://www.ditiswijk.nl/fotoalbum/category/392.html

Demo Museum Dorestad, Wijk bij Duurstede

2010-08-09T10:12:00.002+02:00

Yesterday Aud and I did a demo in Museum Dorestad in Wijk bij Duurstede. Aud was demonstrating tabletweaving and I was demonstrating nalebinding and telling about dyeing with natural dyes.

1950's halter dress

2010-08-08T09:47:00.006+02:00

It was grey and wet, yesterday when I wore my red version of Marilyn's, The Seven Years Itch, dress. So we didn't get much chance to make pictures and I am not looking to happy either, in the ones we did get to make. Not only because of the bad weather but also because the dress rapidly became to wide when I wore it. It made me look baggy and I felt horrible. Lucky enough, there are so many people in good and not so good costumes at Castlefest, that I don't think anyone really noticed, but me.

I will sew in a dart in the top of the dress to take it in slightly and reinforce the midriff section extra with interfusible lining.

Purchased Patterns

2010-07-30T12:54:00.012+02:00

Recently I purchased these two patterns on Ebay.

Vintage 1940s/1950s, FRENCH KNICKERS & SLIP LINGERIE Sewing Pattern,'Style' No. 4668.

If this pattern arrives on time, I will make silk french knickers. To wear under my 1950's halter summer dress. This pattern is even accompanied by the original receipt of purchase form 'Barkers' of Kensington. London. Purchase date was 1950.

This is a reproduction of a vintage sewing pattern for a 1920s deco style bra that was in the magazine "Mon Ouvrage" printed in October 1927.

I am thinking about making a 1920's/1930's somewhere in the future and this provides a little bit more bust support than the style of underwear usually worn. This top might also be usefull for wearing with the Edwardian underbust corset that I intend to make for the Edwardian Costume that I am working on.

A French ad from 1910.

detail image of bra:

A Dutch ad from 1909.

Classic beauties

2010-07-22T18:17:00.002+02:00

A lovely hommage to classic hollywood beauties... and a great version of a wonderfull song as well.

The 1950's halter dress is almost finished. This was the first time I had to sew a zipper in. I've always avoided those things, but it turned out great, especially considering it's my first one. A small alteration has to be made to the bodice of the dress for a better fit.

Mock-up model for the bodice, notice the gapping at the sides. I already made some alterations, like using a smaller size for the cups, and it looks better but the fit still isn't perfect.

A swatch of the fabric, I have used for the dress, it is red cotton with tiny white dots.

Old Postcard

2010-07-16T13:56:00.000+02:00

This was one, out of a series of old postcards, featured in our local newspaper. I just liked the image and I wanted to share it.

Newspaper

2010-07-14T15:18:00.003+02:00

Today, my son and I recieved this newspaper clipping, from friends of husbands parents. Who live in Wijk Bij Duurstede. A big thank you to Marinus en Gerda!

Edwardian Walking Skirt Finished

2010-07-13T16:37:00.003+02:00

Making and sewing the silk strips on the fabric took almost as much time as sewing the entire skirt! Next time I would cut the strips on the bias of the fabric, but this time I didn't have enough, of the quite expensive, aubergine/prune colored duponi silk, to do that.

With this finished, it is now time to start working on the red 1950's halter dress. The rest of this walking costume, the coat, blouse, hat and underwear, will have to wait a little while.

A Slower Pace

2010-07-09T14:40:00.012+02:00

It is tropical warm here, in the Netherlands, at this moment, and it has been so for days, almost weeks. Costuming, like my daily live, is going at a much slower pace.

The hem on my Edwardian skirt has been done. I only need to make and sew on the three strips of decorative fabric on the bottom of the dress. Like on the original they are not going to be gathered or pleated, just smooth strips. At this moment I have no clue on how to make them fit and lie perfectly flat. That is going to be a challenge.

Meanwhile, I've purchased the blonde bombshell pattern by Folkwear.

For those who are not fimiliar with it, it is a 1950's style halter dress. Much like the one Marilyn Monroe wore in the movie Seven years Itch.

We will be attending Castlefest as visitors, a medieval/fantasy event, on the 8th of August. And since my hair has been cut, my husband has been teasing me that I remind him of Marilyn Monroe. I personally think that his imagination is running wild from the heat, but I also think it is kind of sweet...

So when the subject of what outfit/costume to wear to castlefest. He dared me to make the (in)famous halterdress. Being a brunette and not to fond of white clothing, I decided that I am going to make it in red. That is so much more my color!

Although, I am no Marilyn Monroe or Kelly LeBrock...

I hope the end result will be pleasing... ;-)and I'll make sure to stay away from fans and subways!

But at least I am sure of one fan, my husband!

Versatile Blogger Award

2010-06-28T13:40:00.021+02:00

I have just been graciously granted the Versatile Blogger Award by Lady FashionK of Fashions of Time. Thank you so much. I've been smiling all day!

Now that I have recieved this award I must tell seven things about myself and post a list of my five Versatile Blogger Award Winners!

7 things about me:

1. I am a, soon to be, 36 years old, stay-at-home-mum of an 8,5 years old son and I live in the Netherlands.

2. Like most people who make costumes we have a cat. No costume is ever complete without cat hair! She is black, with some white spots, and her name is Tinkerbell. We also have a rabbit named Snuffy.

3. I have ADHD and fibromyalgia.

4. I not only make costumes but also write short stories and poems. I also love Photography.

5. I started this hobby in Society for Creative Anachronism as a member of the Dutch branch, Polderslot. My brother-in-law and his wife are still members there.

6. Our first event was in October 1997 and the dress I wore was not made by me, but by my mum! My husband and I where both hooked immediatly and that is when I started sewing and making historical costumes.

7. Our first re-enactment event was in November 2003 at Brederode it was called Middeleeuwse Toestanden. It marked the start of our Living History Group De Zwarte Zwaan (The Black Swan)

An my 5 Versatile Blogger Awards go to...:

Bad Dreams Good Nightmares I really love, love, love Scott Altman's art. He truly brings magic to live.

Living Dutchly
A American living in the Netherlands describing his daily live here. His stories often make me laugh !

And ofcourse some costuming blogs only three awards remaining. That is going to be a bit of a problem. There are so many great blogs out there!

Loose Threads: Yet Another Costuming Blog
Catherine Raymond also manages to dig up great information about archeological finds and facts. She also makes really great early costumes!

The Dreamstress In one word, WoW! If you are not familiar with her blog, check it out and see for yourself.

Wilhelmina's Antique Fashion
Always posting pictures and information about historical fashion.

Dorestad 850 at Wijk Bij Duurstede

2010-06-28T08:35:00.023+02:00

Where the post about our previous event could have had the title Wet, wet, wet! This posts title could be; feeling hot, hot, hot!

Luckily for everyone the Saturday was slightly cooler than the Sunday. When the temperature was around 30ºC. So at least, the biggest part of, Saturday and on sundaymorning I did demonstrate dyeing with natural dyes, but after getting sick of the heat on saterday afternoon. I had to keep it cool on Sunday.

I did feel bad for those who came to see us. And found most vikings sitting in the shadows, trying not to get a heat stroke.

I also felt bad for our son. The Huginn sibbe could not attend the event. As they where celebrating Skuld's birthday. BTW Happy birthday little princess! He was all alone and had no one to play with. But he behaved extremely well and did a lot of different things.

Like:

Woodcarving with his own knife ! He got his first knife this event and he was really happy and really proud. I was not so happy, very proud but really scared...

Making a fire with a firestrike and a flint.

Leatherworking, sewing a pouch.He also sold one, for the first time. He is becoming a real craftsman.

And ofcourse charming the socks of vikings and visitors!

Not everyone was able to hide in the shadows. The brave fighters did give shows to entertain the public.

Meanwhile, at the campsite of the craftspeople and merchants, there was a more relaxed attitude.

All in all, all of us, had a lovely weekend.

And although I can't wait to work on my 1909's skirt, I first have to clean up and store away all the things we used this weekend. Last week, I did manage to take the skirt in. I am keeping my fingers crossed that it will fit this time and that it hasn't become to small. If it fits correctly, I only have to hem it. I plan to decorate the it as well, but this will have to wait until I have finished the coat. I want to make the flounces out of the same fabric as the skirt itself but I am not sure if I have enough fabric to do this.

If my Purple Edwardian 1909's costume is finished in time. Maybe I'll use it as an entry for the Historical Costume Inspiration Festival

I would like to thank Fashions of Time for posting about it on her blog. I also would like to thank her for giving me the versatile blogger award. I've been smiling all day and I am working on my post about it.

Edwardian Corselette ready

2010-06-19T21:23:00.004+02:00

Today I finished my Edwardian Corselette!

Detail of the embriodery on it.

The Corselette worn over the, unfinished, skirt.

The original skirt and skirtwaist.

The waistband of the skirt turned out 8 cm to wide, if I want to fit the skirt into the smaller waistband neatly, it also has to be taken in. This probably will have to wait. As I want to finish the grey diamond twill linen viking undertunic that I also have been working on before next weekend. Because than we will attend a viking event in Wijk bij Duurstede, in viking times known as Dorestad.

Something strange is happening here...

2010-06-14T18:28:00.006+02:00

I don't like doing embriodery. I don't have the patience nor the fine motorskills necessary to make it look good. So my husband was really, really surpriced when he came home and found this....

The original corset waisted skirt has embriodery on the "corset" part and I really, really love the look. So when I found Edwardian embriodery patterns, dated to May 1908, on-line. I decided to have a go at it.

I have tried to keep the pattern and the color scheme in the same style/feel as the original. The whole pattern will be done in a simple chainstitch. And I must admit, that I am, literally, warming up to the idea of doing embroidery. As it is one of the things, I can do while sitting outside, soaking up the sun.

Alas, this does mean I can't work on the corselette until the embroidery is finished.

Edwardian Corselette

2010-06-11T15:20:00.005+02:00

Truly Victorian 492 Pattern

I've sewn the mock-up versions of the Edwardian corselette together.

I've decided to go with the alternative version of the tall corselette, because in my opinion, it matches the look of the original, best.

Edwardian Corset skirt

2010-06-07T15:03:00.013+02:00

A few years ago I fell in love with a picture of an Edwardian Walking Costume, in the book Haute Couture & Prêt-à-Porter, Mode (Fashion) 1750-2000 - Ietse Meij. For those of you lucky enough to own the book, it's on page 79. And also in the book Haagse Hofmode (Hague Court Fashions) on page 27, on the far right.

It is the costume on the right, in the picture above. I found this image here berthi.web-log.nl. Where you can also find, under 26 &27 september, more pictures of the exposition Haagse Hofmode.

A description of the dress:

A Liberty& Co Walking Costume, consisting of a blouse, skirt, coat and mitaines (fingerless gloves). The skirt and coat are from purple wol and silk shangtung. The smocked blouse is made in silk.

The skirt has an attached corselet but without, as more commonly, the point going upward, but going downward instead. I can't see the back in any of the pictures, so I have no clue, how it looks.

A picture of a corset(waist)skirt in dutch called a keursrok.

Pattern of typical corset skirt:

How to sew boning into a corset skirt.

I do not intend to replicate this costume, my costume will be merely based upon it, but I do want to keep close to the original look. As I have a very short uppertorso, I was not sure of whether or not the attached corselette skirt would look good on me. I decided on making a separate corselette girdle after finding this picture, of what is called the Medici ceintuur (belt).

* All image above are from; Ik kan kostuumnaaien, dated to ca. 1905/1909*

Which looks suspiciously much like the Truly Victorian #492, 1890's Victorian Corselets pattern.

With a separate girdl I will have the option to wear my costume with or without it. So if it doesn't look good, I do not have to change the entire skirt.

At this moment I am experimenting with several variations of the TV pattern, on of them has a downward curve in front.

I found out that a corset/girdl/belt like this is also often refered to as a Swiss waist.

Swiss Waist (picture)

Vintage silk Swiss waist

Vintage Swiss Waist

Variety of pictures with Swiss waists

http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/swiss_pattern.html

Victorian Blue Corduroy Swiss Waist Cincher

Adventures of a Costumer has a nice blog about it.

And now I finally understand where the famous swiss dirndl derived from!

Day of the Park/Dag van het park, Capelle aan de IJssel

2010-05-31T11:30:00.026+02:00

The best description of this medieval event is, WET! Which was a real shame, as the organisation put a lot of effort into making it a big succes.

Lucky enough for us, it didn't rain when we had to set up our camp.

Here a picture to show off my son his 15th century outfit, with the undertunic I had made the day before. He liked this costume so much, that for the biggest part of the day, he flatly refused to wear his warm overtunic.

There where a lot of familiar and friendly faces, so the atmosphere was good. While waiting for the weather to clear and the public to come. We all huddled around the fire with our neighbours and talked about events passed. Ofcourse there where a lot of the (in)famous no-shit-there-I-was-stories.

Neither rain, nor snow, nor sleet, nor hail, could keep this lovely young lady from bringing us food. Having a full stomache always lifts the spirits. My son especially loved the pancakes with jam and the meatballs.

Ofcourse we where doing our crafts.

Audrey was sewing

Peter showed off his nice sharp,pointy things...

Remko was casting pewter

I was dyeing silk scarfs with Campeche wood and continued nalebinding my son's socks.

When it was dry, the childeren tested my son's gambeson. But they also enjoyed watching the juggler, the fighting practice and the jousting tournament.

No, the little princess is not concerned for one of the boys. She is waiting for her turn!

It was pouring, when we had break up camp. And I can't remember ever having been finished this quickly!

Help, I've created a costume monster!

2010-05-29T14:48:00.008+02:00

After making and finishing costumes at the last minute for years. I promised myself never to make a last-minute-costume again. Up untill now I've managed to keep my promise most of the time. (Okay, that is not counting the long black victorian coat that had to be finished the night before, last December.)

Today, I was faced with a big dilemma...

After refusing to fit his medieval costume for days. I finally (nearly) twisted my son his arm and he tried on his costume. This 15th century costume, was a gift from a friend who's son had outgrown it a long time ago. He's a handsome 18 year old lad by now, but just like me, she can't stand to throw any of his costumes away. She was kind enough to donate, some of his costumes, to us. I intended my son to wear this costume with the natural colored linnen tunic, he usually wears. But when he had it on, it looked wrong. I thougth so, he thought so. So I took out the worn out white undertunic that belonged with the costume (BIG Mistake!) just to try it on. And he looked gorgeous. I thougth so, he thought so. He turned on his big brown puppy eyes and smiled at me....

And at that instant, I knew I was lost!

Mum, I really like this shirt better, he said.
But it's worn out, I said.
*Even bigger puppy eyes*
Yes, it is. But could you make an new white linnen one for me? Pleaaasssseee?*blink, blink, pout*

It's really hard, or better impossible, for me to say No, to my son. Who likes nice costumes, just as much as I do.

So now, this mum is sewing a new white 15th century undertunic (the fabric btw was for my new undertunic) and making some small repairs to the, really cool, 15th century outfit.

Hopefully it will be finished in time! To be continued...

Whitsun Viking market at the Archeon

2010-05-25T10:55:00.017+02:00

We had a wonderful, and busy, Whitsun at the vikingmarket in the Archeon.

Aud/Audrey is doing sprang under supervision of her daughter Skuld/Aurora

Per/Peter is doing leatherwork

My son and husband are doing leatherwork as well.

Me doing some embroidery, instead of nalebinding, for a change.

My son had been asking me, for embroidery on his tunic, for a year. Now I finally got around to it. It is very simple, a herringbone stitch and a chainstitch in wool thread, but I think it looks nice. Myrddin is happy with it, and that is most important.

Friends who came to shop, ended up sitting in our camp, doing crafts....

Cyril is teaching my son Myrddin how to make his own arrows.

Marianne is doing some nalebinding.

Even the public joined in the fun! This lovely young lady, named Iris, wanted to learn how to do nalebinding and asked for a workshop. In return she gave me a refreshment course fingerlooping.

Ofcourse there was also time to play.

Per/Peter did a Robin Hood!

Ofcourse at a market you have to shop!

A lady never ever has enough shoes ;-)

After buying the shoes there was no money left to buy the white, diamond twill, linnen in need for my Princess of Zweeloo costume reconstruction. But I did manage to buy a beaver tooth. So I can wear it on a chain, around my neck, just like her.

Finally we had a chance to try the Anglo-Saxon geteld we bought last year.

Along with some other things Remko made during the winter.

Next weekend we will be doing medieval re-enactment on Sunday. I am lucky if I get all the viking stuff cleaned up and all the medieval thing together in time. So I won't have time to work on my Edwardian costume this week.

Progress on the purple Edwardian Skirt & letting out

2010-05-18T09:06:00.003+02:00

The pictures don't do the skirt justice, but I couldn't wait to show the progress I made. I still need to sew in the snap button closure, in the back, and it needs to be hemmed.

Front

Back

Back detail, inverted pleat.

This week I probably won't have time to work on it, as coming weekend we go to the
vikingmarket at the Archeon. I am happy that I made my sons costume with large seams last year. I let them all out this weekend, and I didn't have to make him a new costume! It fun to see how much he has grown...

Even after pressing with a hot steam iron the let out seems did stay visible especially on his linen tunic and trousers. It's a pity, but I am still really happy not having to make a new vikingcostume at this moment

Edwardian Ladies Vest

2010-05-13T11:03:00.009+02:00

The Edwardian Ladies Vest is finished and I just love how it turned out! Like most Folkwear patterns the finished backlength is short, even for me and I am quite small.

Here is the silver and marcasite Edwardian jewellery I am going to wear with the costume. The earrings were originally clips, but I had them altered.

Next step is deciding with what part of the purple Edwardian costume to start...

Edwardian style shirtwaists

2010-05-11T16:52:00.008+02:00

White cotton, with white cotton lace and small mother of pearl buttons, Gibson Girl blouse. I converted, the back closure of Folkwear pattern, to a front closure. The back length of the pattern, even the longer modern version, was too short. So I had to add a wide band to make it longer. The pattern piece for the long cuffs come from the Edwardian shirtwaist pattern by Sense and Sensibility. I love the look of the lace details, but as it is modern lace the thread used it to thick. Luckily enough I have some more authentic antique lace for the final version. I also love the long buttoned cuffs, both features will be used in the final version.

White, striped, cotton Edwardian shirtwaist with a pintucked front. It closes with buttons in the back. This shirtwaist I made to check the fit of the Edwardian shirtwaist pattern by Sense and Sensibility so I kept it simple. As the fit is good, this will be the basic pattern for my final Edwardian blouse. I am not sure if it will have pintucks as a feature. I find it really diffult to make them neatly. But I just love the look when it's done properly.

My silver and marcasite Edwardian (style ?) brooch looks really good on the collar of this blouse!

Currently I am working on the buttons and buttonsholes of the Edwardian Ladies Vest.

Edwardian waistcoat

2010-05-06T09:11:00.005+02:00

To spice up my Edwardian summer costume I decided to make a ladies waistcoat. With Folkwear pattern #222 Vintage Vests and some scraps of lovely fabric I still had.

The skirt I was working on is finally finished. The waistcoat still needs buttons and buttonsholes. The shirtwaist in the picture, I made some years ago, is a converted version of the Gibson girl blouse pattern (# 205) from Folkwear Patterns. The lower part of the sleeves comes from a Sense and Sensibility pattern and still needs buttons and buttonholes. The shirtwaist, from the Sense and Sensibilitly pattern, that I was working on, is also nearly finished it only needs buttons and buttonsholes. Guess what I dislike sewing...

Edwardian costume mock-up

2010-04-27T14:05:00.006+02:00

Yesterday I tried on, my mock-up version, for the 1909's Edwardian costume, for the very first time. The waistband on my skirt is to big, especially with my corset on, so it has to be taken in.
If I get these mock-up versions to fit neatly, they will probably end up as my Edwardian summer costume, as I hate to waste good fabric. But I must admit that I am not complety happy with how I look in this version of the costume. I feel like an Edwardian schoolmistress, instead of a lady. Hopefully I will feel better in the plum colored skirt and coat, and with the more elegant creme colored and decorated with lace blouse. But it is a bit of a gamble...

The pattern I used for the skirt is the 7-gore skirt with inverted pleat,from the 1909 Ladies Coat Suit Pattern. The blouse is made with 1909 “Beatrix” Shirtwaist Pattern from Sense and Sensibility patterns.After altering the waistband the skirt needs to be hemmed and than it will be finished. The shirtwaist still needs a lot of work.

A Vikingday at the Archeon

2010-04-18T10:19:00.004+02:00

The weather was fine, the company was great. Our first re-enactment day of this year was wonderfull. I didn't get much nalebinding done. I was to busy enjoying the company and the sun. But I did go home happy and relaxed.

Buttons, buttons, buttons!

2010-04-13T09:14:00.004+02:00

Last Saturday I went to the Verzamelaarsbeurs (a collectorsfair) in Utrecht. There where several really nice Victorian and Edwardian textiles for sale, sadly all out of my budget range. But the thing I like best is that you can see and touch period costumes. I enjoy seeing how they where made.

I did buy some period reproduction buttons, they are all brand new, but made with authentic molds and materials. And at prices I can't even buy modern buttons for!

The Edwardian walking skirt is nearly finished, is still needs to be hemmed and the hook and eye closure needs to be sewn in. As I, as always, have problems getting the skirt to close, neatly without a gap, with hooks and eyes. I have hung aside the skirt, for awhile, and started working on the mock-up for my Edwardian style blouse.

Here are the notions I intend to use for the final blouse. Creme colored batist cotton fabric, glass pearl buttons and antique lace.

Pini Dye Job

2010-04-03T18:44:00.002+02:00

Last fall I promised my friend Arda Sigibertsdottr from Girbeson Living History that I would overdye her purple pini in a slightly more appropriate color, we decided on red. Normally I would dye with natural dyes as was done in the viking era. But I didn't think it would work well on the purple color it had already and I didn't want to strip the paint because it is quite harsh on the fabric.

But after re-thinking the whole idea through the winter, I decided to strip the paint to a more neutral color in order to get a nice red. First I tried washing it warm with soda, it did remove some of the color but not enough. Then I stripped the dye with dylon dye remover, this its how it looked afterwards.

Then dyed it with Ashford wool dyes, color red. This is how it came out.

I am satisfeid with the color, it looks a lot like madderdyed fabric. But the pini has shrunk, so I am keeping my fingers crossed that I will still fit. Luckily she can always make something nice for her daughter Runa out of the fabic.

Fabric for 1909 ladies coat costume

2010-03-30T09:14:00.003+02:00

I have been searching all winter for fabric to make my ladies coat costume from. But everything here seems to be grey, black and dark blue. Which is not what I am looking for. While browsing Ebay, I found this lovely medium weight plum (dark purple) colored wool fabric.

Which I bought, eventhough I am broke at this moment, it was just too perfect! Ofcourse it will take a while before it's here, probably about 6-8 weeks, enough time to make a mock-up version of the skirt and maybe do some viking or medieval costuming. The 17th of april will be our first viking re-enactment day in the Archeon, we will be guests of the Girbeson family

Progress on the 1909 Ladies Coat

2010-03-24T13:56:00.002+01:00

After whipstitching the sleeves in place, by hand. I have dediced that this blue wool version, of the 1909 Ladies Coat, will have to serve as the mock-up model. The wool fabric that I have used, is simply to stiff and thick to ever work as a coat. The good news is that I don't think it's that bad of a solution as the fabric cost be something around €3,- in a thrift shop.
On the other hand the bad news is that I will have to look for a new wool fabric, and everything that is available at the moment is grey or black. While I am looking for purple, red or royal blue.

Spring is here

2010-03-24T10:40:00.002+01:00

Finally spring is here and all of a sudden I have started things up again! Most of it is behind the scenes, at least for now. I have decided that I want to change my Re-enactors Household website drastically. It is in desperate need of updating and trimming down. I have several website, too many websites if I am honest, and they all need to be streamlined, in order for me to be able to maintain them. Also I want a totally different look for the Re-enactors Household Website.

My husband pinned the sleeves of my 1909 coat in yesterday and hopefully I will have the time to sew them in today! So there is also a little progress in that project!

Not much happening here

2010-03-07T14:55:00.003+01:00

As you'll probably all have noticed, it's been a while since my last post. There is not much to tell at this moment. My 1909 coat is hanging unfinished in the closet. The head of the sleeves are too big, and the collar is too small.So some remodelling has to be done, uncertain of how to make the necassary changes,I hung the coat in the closet. Awaiting inspiration and courage.

With my inspiration and creativity at an all-time-low, I haven't started with another project. I guess I am just waiting for spring to start...

Ladies 1909 coat

2010-01-26T14:52:00.004+01:00

While toying around in my mind with several ideas for medieval costumes, I deciced to work on a 1909 Edwardian coat. A few years ago I started to work on a Edwardian Walking Costume, but I never finished it because I wasn't completly satisfeid with how it was turning out.
At this moment I am making a mock-up version of the coat, with a pattern from the Rocking Horse farm # 909 Ladies Coat suit. If all goed well the mock-up might end up as the coats lining. I must Admit, I am not wildly enthousiatic about the pattern and would not reccomend it to any one. The sewing description is minimalistic and I think it is only suited for the experienced seamstress.
I intend to make the coat out of blue coat quality wool, which I bought at a thrift shop a couple of years ago together with the yellow fabric I am now using for the mock-up model. At first I wanted to make the coat suit out of bright red wool, but as I am currently quite broke and bright red wasn't common in the Edwardian age. I deciced to use the fabric I had available. The blue wool, mostly likely, isn't enough for a coat and skirt, so it won't technically be a suit.

Sherlock Holmes Movie

2010-01-17T20:49:00.011+01:00

Without expecting much I went to see the new Sherlock Holmes movie, but when I came out of the theater I had to admit that I actually liked it.

No, the costumes are not perfectly authentic, but it doesn't pretend to be a "costume" movie and considering that it is a hollywood/guy ritchie movie, it's not that bad! Rachel Adams, who plays Irene Adler, wears a corset underneath her lovely bustle gown. It is a shame that they made her wear so much modern looking femme fatale make-up. Probably to hide the fact that she is too young, inexperienced and sweet looking to play the femme fatale Irene.
The storyline, although not based upon a actual book by Conan Doyle, is entertaining. But if you are a big fan of the original books and charactgers you might be better of not going. Personally I found the approacht to Sherlock Holmes and his companions refreshing.

Out with the old, bring in the new or new years resolutions

2010-01-08T11:20:00.019+01:00

The start of a new year is always a good time to make up the balance, this was my To-Do-List for 2009.

Necessary

* fix the hem of my white linen veil. Done!
* make a pair of hosen for my son Myrddin Done!.
* make thorsberg type trousers (without feet)of hand dyed wool,for Myrddin. Done!
* nalebind socks for Audrey Done!
* nalebind socks for Petra Done!
* put together a victorian style boys outfit for Myrddin Done!
* answer all my e-mail! Well ahum different subject please. "blushes"

I would like to:

* weave my own square shawl with natural dyed wool tried and failed.
* make a Burgundian Gown
* make a "horned" headdress for my houppelande dress
* make a smocked 13th/14th century apron
* make a early viking hairnet in sprang
* make a new viking tunic for myself with hand dyed wool (madder)Done!
* make a new viking apron with hand dyed wool (unionskins)Done!
* make a victorian corset cover for my 1885's costume Done!
* make a better victorian petticoat for my 1885's costume
* make a victorian ballgown bodice for my 1885's costume Done!
* make a late victorian hat Done!
* make a blue silk cotehardie with tippets

Overall I didn't do too bad! I finished all the necessary projects and managed to some of other things as well. Obviously my personal interest this year was mainly victorian, so I did a lot of the victorian project.

To-do-list 2010

Necessary

* two pair of nalebound socks for Myrddin, this is a yearly recurring project.
* make a pair of hosen for Myrddin, this is also a yearly recurring project.
* dyed the pini (apron dress) of a friend, with a horrible modern chemical dye,the
fabric isn't suitable to dye with natural dyes.

I would like to

* Work on, not necessarily finish, my Edwardian Walking Costume project.
* make a "Burgundian" gown
* make a smocked 13th/14th century apron
* make additions for and to my 1880's bustle costume.
- adding ruffles to the hem of the skirt
- make a diner bodice
- make a new, style of, overskirt.
* gather information and ideas on how to make the early tudor/transition style dress I've been wanting to make for years.

I try to keep the plans and ideas for this year as realistic as possible. There are things in my personal live at this moment, that take a lot of my time and energy. Next to making costumes I have also an other hobby. Which is writing short stories, in Dutch, I publish them somewhere else on the internet.

My new years resolution for this year is: cleaning up and decluttering our house before starting a new costuming project. My household has three creative persons, who like to create things and cannot through anything away, in it. Our house is bursting at the seams, so it is time to through things away and if possible find new homes for others. This will mean selling some costuming patterns, costumes, books, jewellery and accessories. Just to make room in my house and in my head for new projects.

Exhibition at the Hermitage in Amsterdam

2010-01-03T14:03:00.004+01:00

Yesterday I went to the Hermitage in Amsterdam, to visit their current exhibition: At the Russian court, Palace and Protocol in the 19th century. I would certainly recommend this exhibition to anyone interested in nineteenth century costume and accessories, it will be on display untill the 31 of January this year.

A satin and silk gown made by Worth, dating to 1880-1890, worn by Maria Fjodorovna.

More images online.

Happy New Year !

2010-01-01T18:40:00.001+01:00

First of all, I want to wish you all a Happy New Year!

A couple of days ago I found an illustrated third edition, dating to 1890, of one of my favorite childerens books: Francis Burnett's, Little Lord Fauntleroy or in Dutch De Kleine Lord. I couldn't resist buying it, hopefully it will help coping with the withdrawal symptoms of not working on a costume ;-)

Pictures of Anton Pieck Parade uploaded ! And Merry Christmas

2009-12-24T15:25:00.006+01:00

A good view of my late victorian hat.

The best picture I have of my long black victorian coat.

To see more go to our website:
A Victorian Wardrobe and click on Photoalbum

And some color versions on De Zwarte Zwaan website

Merry Christmas to All!

Anton Pieck Parade 2009

2009-12-13T14:56:00.003+01:00

A couple of pictures of the Anton Pieck Parade of yesterday. It was really cold outside we where lucky enough to have a nice home for the day in Karco. They took excellent care of us. This was our son's first year and it was really hard to keep him entertained with the few authentic victorian toys for boys we could find. There was a lot of public, there were even two ladies from Belgium who came especially for this event. It made me feel very humble and I truly hope they had a good time. The long black victorian coat was finished just in time. It kept me nice and warm on the cold day. I hope to have more pictures on our websites soon. I'll keep you posted.

Seams

2009-12-04T09:17:00.004+01:00

I do not have a lot of time left for the 12th December and I didn't get much work done the last week. Due to my son his eight birthday and the preparations for Sinterklaas. On top of that I've been very tired.

The coat looks finished enough, with only the sleeves that still need to be set in. But as the coat has been flat lined, fashion fabric and quilted lining sown together, there are a lot of raw seams inside my coat. The fashion fabric frays terribly so all seams have to be covered with bias tape. Which is an awful lot of work as it needs to be done by hand in order not to show on the outside of the coat. Here is how the seams of the sleeves look inside out at this moment. I am still working on the black velvet cuffs.

I wasn't happy with my big 1902's black glass buttons and decided to use them for a Edwardian coat. So I bought seven victorian black glass 1.25 inch buttons on Ebay.

They probably aren't going to be here on time. I'll wait untill the last moment and then sewn on horrible plastic ones of similar size, so that I can wear the coat on the 12th December.

The back of the coat with, what the instructions called boxpleats, looks fine. I just followed the instructions, as usual with Truly Victorian they where clear and easy to follow.

All in all there is still a lot of work that needs to be done, before the coat is wearable and I am not sure that it will be finished on time....